How the city is laid out
Mumbai sits on a long, narrow peninsula. The historic centre, often called South Mumbai or "town", is at the southern tip: Colaba, Fort, Churchgate and Marine Drive. The suburbs run north for many kilometres, with Bandra, Juhu and Andheri the areas visitors know best. The main airport is in the suburbs, so getting to South Mumbai can take an hour or much longer in traffic.
Where to stay
| Area | Good for | Keep in mind |
|---|---|---|
| Colaba and Fort | First visits, heritage walks, the Gateway of India and Elephanta ferries | Far from the airport; busy and touristy around Colaba Causeway |
| Churchgate and Marine Drive | Sea-front walks, easy access to Western line trains | Limited choice at the budget end |
| Bandra | Cafés, nightlife, sea-face promenades, a middle point between town and the airport | A train or cab ride to the old city sights |
| Near the airport | Late arrivals and early departures | Little to see; you will commute for sightseeing |
Neighbourhoods worth walking
- Fort and Kala Ghoda: Victorian Gothic and Art Deco buildings, galleries and old bookshops. Mumbai's Victorian Gothic and Art Deco ensembles are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (CSMT): the great Gothic railway station, also on the World Heritage list. Admire it from outside or join an organised heritage walk if one is running.
- Marine Drive: the curving sea front, best at sunset and on breezy evenings.
- Banganga Tank, Malabar Hill: an old temple tank surrounded by shrines, a quiet contrast to the city around it.
- Bandra: lanes of old cottages in areas such as Ranwar, street art and the Bandstand promenade.
- Markets: Crawford Market (Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai) and the wholesale lanes around it are intense, fascinating and best visited in the morning.
Riding the local trains
The suburban railway is the fastest way to cover long distances in Mumbai. There are three main lines: Western (from Churchgate), Central and Harbour (both from CSMT).
- Buy a ticket before boarding. Use a station counter, a ticket machine or the official UTS mobile app. Travelling without a valid ticket can lead to a fine.
- Pick your class. Second class is very cheap and very crowded. First class costs more and is usually less packed. Some services are air-conditioned.
- Check fast or slow. Fast trains skip many stations. Platform indicators show the destination and whether a train is fast (F) or slow (S).
- Use the right coach. Some coaches are reserved for women. Signs on the platform and the coach mark them.
- Avoid the rush. Weekday mornings into town and evenings out of town are extremely crowded. Midday and weekends are far easier.
Never board or leave a moving train, and keep well back from the open doors. Crowding near doors is how most accidents happen.
The Mumbai Metro now covers several routes, including an underground line through the city's centre. It is air-conditioned and calmer than the local trains, and worth checking for your route.
Elephanta Caves
The rock-cut Shiva temple on Elephanta Island, another World Heritage Site, is reached by ferry from near the Gateway of India. The crossing usually takes about an hour each way, followed by a climb of a few hundred steps to the caves. The caves are generally closed on Mondays, and ferries can be suspended in rough monsoon weather, so check before you go. Allow most of a day.
Food to try
- Vada pav: a spiced potato fritter in a soft bun, Mumbai's signature street snack.
- Pav bhaji: buttery mashed vegetable curry with toasted bread.
- Misal pav: spicy sprouted-bean curry topped with crunchy farsan.
- Konkani and Malvani seafood: fish thalis with kokum curry and fried pomfret or surmai.
- Irani cafés: old-style cafés serving bun maska and chai.
Drink bottled or filtered water and choose busy stalls where food is cooked fresh in front of you.
Practical tips
- Black-and-yellow taxis serve South Mumbai; autorickshaws operate in the suburbs. Insist on the meter or use an app cab.
- Traffic is heavy at most hours. Allow generous time for the airport.
- From June to September, heavy rain can flood roads and disrupt trains. See the monsoon guide.
- Dress modestly for temples and mosques and remove shoes where asked.